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올 추석에 조기 드셔보셨습니까?

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작성자 최효선
댓글 22건 조회 10,974회 작성일 08-09-15 20:42

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추석이다. 집집마다 조금씩 다르지만 우리나라 사람은 차례상에 올리는 생선으로 조기를 으뜸으로 여긴다. 그러나 조기는 서민들로부터 저만치 떠나버린 지 오래이다. 엄두도 내지 못할 만큼 비싸기 때문이다. 그래서 중국산을 사다가 구색을 갖추는 집도 많으리라.

어릴 적 국민학교(옛날에는 초등학교를 이렇게 불렀다) 시절, 자연시간에 영광-굴비, 연평도-조기라고 암기했었다. 그러나 굴비와 조기는 전혀 다른 것으로만 알았는데 나중에 알고 보니, 조기는 잡은 그대로의 생선을 말하고 그 (참)조기를 소금에 절여 해풍에 말린 것을 굴비라 고 한다는 것이다.

굴비는 영광지역에서 나는 것이 일품으로 알려져 있다. 그래서 굴비장수 화물차에「하늘에는 ’영광’, 땅에는 ‘굴비’」라고 붙이고 다니질 않는가?
그러나 지금은 굴비의 고장 영광에서는 옛날만큼 조기가 잡히질 않아 어민들의 시름이 이만저만이 아니라고 하는데, 그러면 시중에 나도는 그 많은 굴비는 다 어디서 온 것일까?

조기는 한자사전에도 보이질 않는다. 간혹 '사람의 기운을 북돋는다 해서 '조기(助氣)'라는 설명이 나오기는 한데 정식 한자어는 아닌 모양이다. 단 머리 속에 단단한 뼈가 있기 때문에 석수어(石首魚)라고는 한다.

조기는 수심 40∼200m의 바닥이 모래나 뻘로 되어 있는 연안에서 서식하는데 그래서 뻘이 많은 서해바다 쪽에서 나는 것이다, 조기는 추운 겨울에는 남쪽으로 내려가서 지내고 나서, 봄이 되면 다시 북쪽으로 이동하여 알을 낳는다. 주로 제주 남서쪽 바다에서 겨울을 나고 통통하고 기름진 상태에서 3월 중순 산란을 위해 연평도까지 북상하기 시작한다.

조기 떼는 도중에 영광 법성포 근해인 칠산 앞바다를 지나게 되는데 이 무렵의 참조기가 일품이라고 한다. 겨우내 푹 쉬면서 영양을 충분히 섭취했기 때문에 윤기가 있고 최고의 상태이기 때문이다. 닭으로 치자면 ‘영계‘인 셈이다.

1126년, 고려 인종 때 난을 일으킨 이자겸이 정주(지금의 법성포)로 귀양을 왔다가 해풍에 말린 조기를 먹어보고 그 맛이 뛰어나 임금에게 진상하였다. 그러나, 그는 조기를 보내면서 신하로서 임금에 대한 자신의 변함없는 충정을 드러내고 또한 자기의 옳은 뜻을 ‘굽히지’(屈) ‘않겠다’(非)는 의미로 ‘굴비’(屈非)라는 이름을 붙였다.

그 아부(?)가 통했던지 임금은 굴비를 먹으면서 이자겸의 충심을 깨닳고 그를 귀양에서 풀어 주었다고 한다. 이후 영광굴비는 수라상에 올라가기 시작했다고 전해지는데 하지만 세간에서는 굴비가 아부의 상징이라고 해서 굴비가 아니라 비굴(非屈)이라고 소곤거리기도 한다.

2002년경 조선일보의 논설고문을 지낸 고 이규태선생이 ‘만일 세계 여러 나라 국민들이 똑같은 생선을 좋아했더라면 생선전쟁이 끊이지 않았을 것이다’ 라는 요지의 강연을 한 적이 있다. 바로 생선의 민족색이라는 것인데, 중국-잉어, 우리나라-굴비/명태, 일본-도미, 미국- 연어 , 프랑스-넙치, 덴마크-대구, 아프리카-메기를 예로 들었다.

조기는 머릿속 좌우에 한 쌍의 단단한 흰 뼈(耳石)가 있는데 이 뼈가 다른 물고기에 비해 특히 크다. 물고기에 귀가 있을까 라고 생각할지 모르지만 모든 물고기는 두골 속에 귀(內耳=내이)가 있어 소리를 듣고 몸의 균형을 잡는 역할을 한다고 한다. 조기의 경우는 이 내이가 크다는 뜻에서 일본에서는 조기를 ‘이시모치’(石持=돌귀를 가진 생선)라고 한다. 우리나라의 석수어(石首魚)와 비슷하다고나 할까?

일본인들은 그러나 조기를 우습게 여긴다. 그들은 도미를 최고로 여긴다. 그래서 ‘썩어도 도미’라고 한다. 그들에 있어 조기는 한 낫 낚시의 대상에 불과하다. 낚시 바늘에 걸린 조기가 걸려 올라오면서 내는 소리가 마치 투덜대는 ‘푸념소리’와 같이 들린다 하여 구치(愚痴=グチ=푸념)라고도 한다. 대한민국을 얕잡아보는 못된 근성도 내포 되어 있다

조기는 사시사철 우는데 특히 산란기와 위험을 느꼈을 때에 자주 운다. 사람의 귀로는 구별하기가 그리 쉽지 않지만 밤에 조기 때가 사랑의 대합창을 시작하면 배 위에서 잠을 잘 수 없을 만큼 크다고 한다. 그 조기를 지금 우리는 마음놓고 먹어 볼수 없어 안타깝다.

이전글알림 - 김영준 시인 부친상 08.09.22
다음글즐거운 추석을 맞으시길 08.09.12

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이선자 작성일 08-09-24 15:50

조기도 우나요? 음... --;; <br />
물고기를 너무 우습게 봤네요.<br />
좋은 글 감사히 읽었습니다.

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